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I made a pilgrimage to the bustling central Texas metropolis of Georgetown, TX today to sample the offerings of Back Box Barbecue, featuring the talents of the legendary and controversial pit master, John Mueller.
It's a humble little trailer business in an open lot downtown that just opened a couple of months ago after Mueller's previous barbecue venture was closed last year due to a "difference of opinion" over sales tax issues with the Texas gub'ment. I had never visited any of his Austin ventures.
Me and my compadre arrived in the afternoon after the lunch crowd was gone, not a soul in line. There was plenty of food to choose from. I ordered some moist brisket, a couple of pork spare ribs and a sausage link.
Oh yeah, forgot the squash, a long time John Mueller side specialty that I have wanted to try for a long time. I'm a squash lover from way back, and I was not disappointed. This was no cheapo cheez whiz from a jar just dumped on like bad ballpark nachos, but a real cheddar cheese based sauce melded with the veg. The squash was tender and not mushy. I highly recommend it.
The spare ribs were probably the plate's first prize winner in my book. They had a perfect effortless bite and easy chew, tender but not falling apart, the way great ribs should be. Bold peppery rub was obvious but not mouth-burning. They were full spares, not St. Louis cut, but smaller size, very moist and delicious.
Brisket was perfectly tender and quite moist, full beefy flavor with mild oak smoky flavor and peppery finish. It pulled apart like cotton candy but without shredding. Sausage was top notch, plump and flavorful, not too greasy. i enjoyed the coarse cut of the meat inside the tender casing. The only slight nit was some tiny slightly chewy bits mixed in with the meat, which did not in any way deter its complete annihilation.
I even enjoyed the chunky, spicy sauce, even though I'm not a barbecue saucer. I didn't put it on anything.
I've tasted rivals from each meat category that were on par, but I can't say I've ever had a better complete barbecue meal anywhere.
I suggest hitting this place soon before the lines start getting longer. They're open Thursday through Sunday, I believe.